Wordsworth in Furness

Furness has often held an interest for literary and artistic folk and holds links to several well known characters. One rather notable poet and writer who visited, and wrote about Furness, quite regularly is William Wordsworth.

Wordsworth was born in Cockermouth in the late 1700s and went on to become one of Britain's most celebrated writers with famous works like 'I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud' (known also as Daffodils) becoming globally known.

In his early career Wordsworth would often visit the lands of Furness and on several occasions wrote about famous landmarks of the area, most notably Furness Abbey and Piel Castle.

In 1807 he wrote a poem entitled (this one is a bit of a mouth full..) Elegiac Stanzas Suggested by a Picture of Peele Castle in a Storm, Painted by Sir George Beaumont, which, as the name suggests, was based on Piel Castle off the shores of the Furness peninsula.

“

And this huge Castle, standing here sublime, I love to see the look with which it braves, Cased in the unfeeling armour of old time, The lightning, the fierce wind, the trampling waves.

”

Wordswoth had visited Piel in 1794 at the age of 24 and, at the time of writing this poem, his wife owned a picture of the castle painted by their friend and his patron Sir George Beaumont. He was moved to write this poem following the death of his brother at sea and it was meant as an expression of grief for this event but also for the passing of his own youth and imagination. The painting and his memories of visiting gave inspiration for the work.

At the age of 28 Wordsworth started work on a volume of poems that would not be released until 1850 following his death. The Prelude was a much more personal, autobiographical work that was originally intended as an introduction to a poem The Recluse, a poem he would never complete.

Following his death The Prelude was instead published as it's own work and in one of the poems he wrote of a visit to the ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary's in Furness.

“
Of the day’s journey was too distant far For any cautious man, a Structure famed Beyond its neighbourhood, the antique Walls Of that large Abbey which within the vale Of Nightshade, to St. Mary’s honour built, Stands yet, a mouldering Pile, with fractured Arch, Belfry, and Images, and living Trees, A holy Scene!

”

Throughout his life Wordsworth was a great advocate for Cumbria (then Lancashire, Cumberland and Westmorland) and especially the Lakes. In 1810 he wrote the 'Guide to the Lakes', which became extremely popular following the release of its extended version in 1835. With in this book he makes mention of Ulverston, Dalton, Furness Abbey, Gleaston Castle, Urswick and Conishead Priory.

“

They who wish to see the celebrated ruins of Furness Abbey, and are not afraid of crossing the Sands, may go from Lancaster to Ulverston; from which place take the direct road to Dalton; but by all means return through Urswick, for sake of the view from the top of the hills, before descending into the grounds of Conishead Priory. From this quarter the Lakes would be advantageously approached by Coniston; thence to Hawkshead, and by the Ferry over Windermere, to Bowness: a much better introduction than by going direct from Coniston to Ambleside, which ought not to be done, as that would greatly take off from the effects of Windermere.

”

Wordsworth's passion for the Lakes and indeed the heritage around Furness help greatly in a tourism boom during the Victorian period. The Lakes became extremely popular with people from the inner cities taking the train up to Windermere and beyond. The same can be said for Furness as places like Furness Abbey became greatly admired and visited - a trip to the Lakes was generally seen as incomplete without a trip the the ruins (Queen Victoria herself even visited the site).

Who knows if these sites would have become as popular without William Wordsworth. It is safe to say though that he did have a major impact on the popularity and the preservation of many historic sites in the area.

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Extracts From (in order of appearance):

• Elegiac Stanzas Suggested by a Picture of Peele Castle in a Storm, Painted by Sir George Beaumont, 1807.
• The Prelude, 1805.
• A Guide Through the District of the Lakes, 1835.

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An Enchanting Medieval Fortification, Piel Castle

Across the water from Roa Island near Barrow is the peaceful island of Piel and standing upon it are the enchanting ruins of Piel Castle, a once extensive and imposing building.

The Abbot of Furness built Piel Castle on the southeastern point of Piel Island during the 14th Century. This was built as Edward III had granted Furness Abbey a license to crenellate on the island in 1327. There would have been an earlier fortification on the island but it is difficult to determine to what size and style as the current castle is most likely built where it would have been. The early castle was no doubt made from wood also which would leave little evidence today.

The Castle was built to guard the deep-water harbour at the southern tip of the Furness Peninsula against Scottish raiders and, most likely, pirates! A lot of trade took place through the harbour so any raids or piratical attack could have caused major problems for the Abbey and local tradesmen.

The castle was seized into the king's hands in 1403 as the Abbot, John de Bolton, had been accused of a lack of maintenance. It did later return to the abbey's ownership in 1411. Sadly by the time of the dissolution of the monasteries the castle was in a state of decay and was too ruinous to be used. It was then left unused and slowly fell into even more of a ruinous state, with parts of the curtain walls becoming victim to erosion and the building becoming the picturesque ruins we can see today.

The site consists of a large keep, inner and outer baileys as well as a towered curtain wall. An impressive building in its time and an impressive ruin today! The ruins are under the care of English Heritage and are free to look around and on certain occasions a stairway to the top of the castle keep is opened to the public.

The castle is certainly worth a visit as is the island itself, Piel.

The island is beautiful and picturesque with not only the castle but several small houses, wildlife in abundance, a camp site, a 18th Century pub and even a king!

Whoever is landlord of the pub becomes the King of Piel. This is a tradition that is said to date back to the time of Lambert Simnel when he attempted to usurp the English throne. Simnel and his army landed on Piel in 1487 on their way to battle the King. Whether it does date back to this time is anyones guess but still any new landlord is crowned as King of Piel at an unusual ceremony. The soon to be king is seated on an ancient wooden thrown, wearing a helmet, holding a sword while beer is poured over his head. Odd for certain but quite a spectacle. Once crowned the king can even appoint knights! Usually local fisherman or even anyone who buys a whole round for everyone in the pub.

William Wordsworth wrote a poem in 1806 about Piel Castle. He had visited Piel in 1794 and his wife owned a picture of the castle painted by their friend and Wordsworth’s patron Sir George Beaumont. The poem is called 'Elegiac Stanzas Suggested by a Picture of Peele Castle in a Storm, Painted by Sir George Beaumont' and is a lament on the death of his brother at sea, but also for his own youth and imagination. You can read this poem in full here.

The island and castle has an interesting and vivid history with traditions still upheld today and is perfect for a day trip in the summer months, catching the boat across the channel to Piel's shores.

10 Castles of South Cumbria

Furness and South Cumbria, as this blog showcases, has a deep and rich heritage stretching back to pre-history. This post will show 10 Castles from South Cumbria that are well worth a look. This list has castles of all size from various periods of history. There are small towers alongside large full blown castles/manor houses. Many you will recognise but some you may not have realised existed, so sit back and take a moment to discover these wonderful fortifications (in no particular order).

1. Dalton Castle

Once the court house and prison for Furness Abbey, Dalton Castle is a wonderful little pele tower sitting proudly overlooking Dalton. Owned by the National Trust and run by the Friends of Dalton Castle, the property is open on Saturdays from April to October and is well worth a visit. It may be a small property but there is much to discover with in as well as in the surrounding town.

2. Arnside tower

This lovely little pele tower sits on a rise along a picturesque valley just outside Arnside. It was built in the late 14th Century as a free standing tower most likely as defence against possible Scottish raids. The castle suffered a large fire in the 17th Century but was repaired and used until later that century when some dismantling happened and the tower was left a ruin. It is now on private land and not open to the public but can be seen from a footpath running near by. Further up this same valley is another pele tower known as Hazelslack Tower which is smaller but similar to Arnside.

3. Millom Castle

Millom Castle stands on the outskirts of Millom itself and consists of a large central pele tower surrounded by now ruined buildings, once halls, kitchens and living quarters. The site dates back to the 12th Century when it was a wooden built motte and bailey castle. It was not until the 14th Century that it was built in stone. The castle is now a privately owned farm and is not open for viewing inside but you can get good views from the passing road and from the next-door church yard. 

4. Gleaston Castle

The most ruinous castle on the list is most likely Gleaston Castle. Found next to a farm on the road out of Gleaston this castle is believed to have been started in the mid 13th century by John De Harrington I but was never fully completed. Certain areas were made fit for habitation and lived in but the full fortification was never finished. The site is now owned by a local farming family sitting in a field next to their home. The castle is not accessible for public viewing but can be seen clearly from the road passing by.

5. Piel Castle

Piel Castle was built by the Abbot of Furness on the south-eastern point of Piel Island, to guard the deep-water harbour of Barrow-in-Furness against pirates and Scots raiders. The site boasts the ruins of a 14th-century castle, now in the care of English Heritage, with a large keep, inner and outer baileys and towered curtain walls. The castle can be visited via a small ferry service running throughout the year, when the tide is right, over to the island. 

6. Kendal Castle

This impressive ruin stands on a hill overlooking the town of Kendal. It was originally built in the 1200's as a home for the barons of Kendal, who had influence on the development of the town. The Parr family was one of these barons and lived in the castle for a time. Their daughter was Catherine Parr, the sixth and final Queen of Henry VIII. By the time Catherine was born though the family had abandoned Kendal Castle and it soon fell into ruin. Today it is accessible to view just a short walk up a rather steep hill. There are information boards across the site and some stunning views of the town below.

7. Wray Castle

Wray Castle is the youngest castle on this list being built in the 1800s by retired surgeon James Dawson and wife Margret, whose fortune was used to pay for it. It was constructed on the north west shore of Windermere in a neo-gothic style, meant to mimic medieval castles. The castle has changed hands many times after the Dawson's passing but is now in the care of the National Trust, who open it throughout the year. The castle is pretty bare inside from its former life as a training centre but well worth a visit.

8. Broughton Tower

Standing just outside Broughton, to the north, is an impressive structure known as Broughton Tower Castle. This castle is a mix of varying periods, it was started as a Medieval pele tower (seen in the centre of the above picture) but was later expanded in the 18th Century turning the tower into a manor house. A large extension was added to the original 14th Century castle creating a much larger and impressive structure. Today the castle has been turned into private flats so is off limits for visitors but the building can be seen from a near by field and public footpath.

9. Muncaster Castle

Muncaster Castle sits high on a hill overlooking the picturesque Esk Valley and is an impressive structure. The castle started life as a medieval pele tower (right tower in the above picture), it was extended and later, in 1862 remodelled and extended further to create the building which can be seen today. This extension included the addition of a second tower, made to match the original medieval construction. The castle has been owned and lived in by the Pennington family since 1208. They still live there today and open it to the public throughout the year.

10. Sizergh Castle

Another National Trust property to round off the list is the beautiful Sizergh Castle. Starting life as a 14th Century solar tower the castle was expanded during the Tudor period to create the large building which is present today. The Strickland family have lived in the castle since 1239 and, although they gifted the property to the National Trust in 1950, they still live there today. The castle is definitely  worth a visit and a look around, be sure to take a walk in the stunning gardens too!

So that's our list of 10 Castles in South Cumbria, it is by no means an exhaustive list of all castles in Cumbria but it does highlight some of the more impressive affairs. All these sites are well worth a look, you can visit many for a wander inside and out but those which you can't are easy to see from a relatively close distance.

7 Must See Heritage Attractions in Furness

Furness Abbey, English Heritage

There is no denying the beauty and tranquility of Furness Abbey nor its rich history. The Abbey was, in its day, the second richest abbey in the country, Fountains being the richest. Today the Abbey is managed by English Heritage and is open for visitors through out the year. There is nothing better than spending a few hours wandering around the ruins, exploring the buildings working out what was what.

The Crozier and Ring found at the Abbey in 2010 are now on permanent display in the visitor centre along with many other interesting artefacts, from carvings to effigies.

Highlight: Other than the expansive ruins, the Crozier and Ring with their fascinating new display.

The Dock Museum, Barrow

The Dock Museum is a wonderful little museum all about the industrial and shipbuilding history of Barrow-in-Furness. They also have a brand new gallery which showcases the earlier history of the Furness area. Built into a Victorian dry dock the museum is free to enter and several hours can certainly be spent exploring the displays, as well as the dock. There is also a film show area on the bottom floor with a selection of interesting documentary films to watch.

Highlight: The Stone Axe, Blood Axe, Conquest Gallery including the Viking Hoard and two superbly decorated lead weights.

Dalton Castle, National Trust

Once the court house and prison for Furness Abbey, Dalton Castle is a wonderful little peal tower sitting proudly overlooking Dalton. Owned by the National Trust and run by the Friends of Dalton Castle, the property is open on Saturdays from April to October and is well worth a visit. It may be a small property but there is much to discover with in as well as in the surrounding town.

Highlight: The Medieval dungeon or cell beneath the floor boards within the castle. The spiral staircase is pretty special too!

Swarthmoor Hall

Birthplace of the Quakers Swarthmoor Hall is a wonderful Tudor built mansion nestled in the countryside surrounding Swarthmoor and Ulverston. Open to visitors regularly throughout the year the hall has a lot to offer. The building itself is fascinating to wander around and there are some lovely gardens to stroll in too.

Highlight: The interesting wooden staircase to the back of the house with its central frame which once supported the roof!

Piel Castle, English Heritage

Piel Castle was built by the Abbot of Furness on the south-eastern point of Piel Island, to guard the deep-water harbour of Barrow-in-Furness against pirates and Scots raiders. The site boasts the ruins of a 14th-century castle, now in the care of English Heritage, with a large keep, inner and outer baileys and towered curtain walls. The island of Piel is a beautiful place that can be visited by a small ferry service running throughout the year, when the tide is right. You can really wile away the hours here and on a nice sunny day it is simply glorious!

Highlight: The expansive castle ruins, you can access the top of the main keep on certain days when it is opened.

Gleaston Water Mill

One of the only remaining water mills in the Furness area Gleaston Water Mill is a wonderful reminder of industrial times gone by. The building that stands today was built, or more precisely re-built, in the 1700s. The original mill dated back to the early 1300s and would have ground oats. Today you can visit the mill and look around inside and out as well as enjoy a lovely tea room just next door.

Highlight: The water wheel to the north of the mill, it may not work anymore but is lovely to see.

Conishead Priory

Now home to a Buddhist community Cornishead Priory has had a long and vivid history. Originally a Medieval priory it later became the home of Colonel Thomas Braddyll who built much of what is seen today, before being turned into a hotel. It has also spent time as a holiday home of sorts for the Durham Miners and a military hospital. The Buddhist community took possession of the building in 1976 and have since been slowly bringing it back to life. The grounds to the priory are open to the public throughout the year, except when large Buddhist events take place, there is also a lovely little cafe inside part of the building. Unfortunately the whole building isn't often open to the public.

Highlight: The stunning building, a treat for the eyes from every angle!