Sir John Barrow's Cottage, Ulverston | Snapshot Series

Sitting on the junction of two Ulverston roads stands a small building once home to Sir John Barrow.

Sir John Barrow, as mentioned in an early post about Hoad Monument, was born in Ulverston during the 18th Century and went on to be a founding member of the Royal Geographical Society.

This small cottage at Dragley Beck was where he was born on 19th June 1764.

It would have looked a little different back then, for a start the roof would have likely been made from thatch and there would have been a garden wall sweeping round the front of the building.

At the time Dragley Beck was also a small village in the parish of Ulverston. It certainly wouldn't have been as busy as it is today. Of course as time moved on the village was fully enveloped by the growing town.

John grew up in the area and went to school at Town Bank Grammar School in Ulverston. John left at the age of 13 though to set up a Sunday School for the poor, before moving to Liverpool where he found work at an iron foundry.

This building is a wonderful remnant of the past and it is excellent that it is still standing today.

The building is now looked after by Greenlane Archaeology who open it at various times throughout the year. You can find out more on their website here.

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The Snapshot Series is a series of short posts on singular locations, features or artefacts found in the Furness area. Not large enough to warrant a long blog post we will explore these sites in snapshots!

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Hoad Monument, Ulverston | Snapshot Series

One of the most prominent features visible from the Furness town of Ulverston is the random lighthouse that sits upon a hill above the town - the Hoad Monument.

Even though it appears as such the monument is not a lighthouse, well not a working one at any rate. It is in fact a monument to Sir John Barrow, a man born in Ulverston during the 18th Century, who went on to be a founding member of the Royal Geographical Society.

The monument, real name the Sir John Barrow Monument, was designed in the style of a lighthouse and built on the top of hoad hill on the outskirts of Ulverston. It was built using local limestone in 1850 and stands 100ft tall.

It cost £1250 to build and was paid for mainly by public subscription. It soon became an iconic image of the town and held a special place in the hearts of locals.

This still stands today with the view of the 'Pepper Pot', as it is also refereed to, when driving home is an instant reminder that you are almost there. Many people walk up the hill to wander around the monument every day and enjoy the views up the tower or out across Ulverston.

It really is adored by everyone and will continue to be a lasting symbol of Ulverston and, indeed, the Furness peninsula.

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The Snapshot Series is a series of short posts on singular locations, features or artefacts found in the Furness area. Not large enough to warrant a long blog post we will explore these sites in snapshots!

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A Lost Medieval Priory Beneath a Grand Country House, Conishead Priory

Conishead Priory today is a well visited attraction, home to Buddhist monks and an impressive and “…very important Gothic revival country house with few peers in the north west” (English Heritage). But beneath the grand manor house and its well kept lawns are the foundations of a 12th Century Augustinian Priory.

In 1160 Gamel de Pennington, a local lord living at Pennington Castle, founded a hospital here for the poor of the Ulverston area. Monks from the Order of St. Augustine ran the hospital and lived within it. They also founded a school here to help educated local children. Later, in 1188, the hospital was raised to the status of a Priory and was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. A holy relic kept at the site was said to be a girdle, a type of waist tie, of Mary.

The newly appointed priory soon was given new land and rights which, in turn, brought conflict with the nearby Furness Abbey. Furness was an ever growing power house at the time and would be unhappy with a new priory taking land and tithes from areas they could potentially cultivate. Disputes between Conishead and Furness carried on until 1338 when Edward II gave a royal charter to Conishead, which confirmed all earlier grants of land and rights. This brought to an end all disputes, although one does wonder if the monks at Furness were ever completely happy with the Priories existence!

In the mid 1500’s, as part of the ‘Act for the Dissolution of the Lesser Monasteries’, Conishead was dissolved. The monks were moved on and the lead from the roofs stripped, melted down and sold. The walls were dismantled as well leaving the site all but empty.

If you visit the site today it is hard to see any evidence of this early priory. No ruined walls are left to give an idea of its size or shape, nor any markings on the ground. But, thankfully, there has been some archaeological excavation at the site. This work found the priory church to be beneath the south lawn of the current manor house and to be in the typical cruciform shape with a 100 foot nave and crossing transepts. The domestic buildings of the priory are believed to be beneath the current manor house, inaccessible for research and confirmation of size and shape.

It is a shame that this religious house of old is no longer in existence or that there is no evidence of it left to see. It must have been a peaceful and beautiful place in it’s time and would have been a wonderful place to visit today if still in some form of existence.

After the priories dissolution the estate was given to a man called Lord Mounteagle who built a country house here from what was left of the Priories stone walls. The estate then went on to pass through various hands until eventually coming into the hands of the Braddylls family. They held Conishead for just under two centuries, living in the country house. In 1821 the house was to undergo a drastic change, a change brought about by Colonel Thomas Braddyll - High Sheriff of Lancashire.

The Colonel hired architect Philip Wyatt to rebuild Conishead to a brand new design. From here the current house was demolished and fifteen years later the brand new Conishead manor house was finished and was, and is, stunning. Wyatt had blended different architectural styles to produce a unique and exciting building. The houses distinctive octagonal towers, which stand at the front of the building, are truly impressive at 100 feet tall and make Conishead stand out amongst the surrounding trees and, indeed, amongst other local stately homes and country houses.

Unfortunately for Colonel Braddyll he was, in 1848, declared bankrupt and he lost his newly built Conishead. The site once again passed through various hands until eventually becoming a hydropathical hotel, soon being known as ‘The Paradise of Furness’. The hotel could hold 240 guests and provided a host of different facilities including a huge library, tennis courts, pleasure boating and salt baths.

Fifty years later and the house changed hands again, this time bought by the Durham Miners Welfare Committee. They turned the site into a convalescent home for Durham coal miners who became ill from there work. During the Second World War the site became a military hospital, the largest in the North, and looked after many thousands of patients over the war years.

Today Buddhist monks own and look after the house, which has become the Manjushri Kadampa Meditation Centre. The former walled garden of the country house now holds a beautifully decorative Buddhist temple and the site is a hub for spiritual activity in the area.

Visiting the site today you can get a sense of the tranquillity that the original Augustinian monks would have had being here and that the many families, hotel guests, miners and Buddhists have experienced here over the centuries. The site is well worth a visit for a cup of tea and a slice of cake in the café, a wander around the impressive garden and grounds and a look inside the temple. But while there be sure to take a look at the grand stately home and think of the humble beginning of the site as a medieval hospital turned priory.

The Conishead Runes | Snapshot Series

In 1928 a block or red sandstone was discovered at Conishead Priory during an excavation of the medieval priory. This stone was the capital of a pilaster (an architectural element used to give the appearance of a supporting column) which would have once been part of the priory church. There was something different about this stone though, interestingly it had a runic inscription carved into it. Not something you would usually expect from a Medieval monastic site. The runes themselves had been translated as 'Dotbert' or 'Rotbert' (as in Robert) but some have suggested that it may translate as 'Kotbert' meaning Cuthbert, which could be very interesting.

Sadly this fascinating block went missing sometime after its discovery and its whereabouts became unknown. That is until a chance visit to an English Heritage store in 2016 led to its re-discovery!

I, the author of Furness Hidden Heritage, had visited the English Heritage stores in Helmsley to view the artefacts in storage there from Furness Abbey. While being shown around I was intrigued by one particular piece of stone which had a runic inscription upon it. The curators at the store were unsure as to what the inscription said and were under the belief that it was a stone from Furness Abbey. It certainly is in the same red sandstone synonymous with the abbey so it easily fit with all the other artefacts in storage.

Image courtesy of Greenlane Archeology.

I was curious about the stone so took a picture of the inscription for my own records. On leaving the stores I didn't put much more thought into the stone until one day when I was reading up on the priory at Conishead. I had found a report by Greenlane Archaeology, of Ulverston, and in the document there was mention of a unique stone found at Conishead with a runic inscription, a stone that's whereabouts was now unknown. Below the text was a black and white picture of the very same block I had seen in the stores.

My heart jumped and I immediately thought "I know where that is!". Quickly I checked the photograph I had taken of the stone in the stores to confirm my initial thoughts and yes, the runes matched, they were the same stone!

I soon got in contacted with Danny of Greenlane Archaeology to let him know of my discovery. He immediately got in contact with the curators at English Heritage and soon had confirmation that the Conishead Runes indeed sat on a shelf in the Helmsley stores. This marked the re-discovery of this fantastic piece of local history.

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The Snapshot Series is a series of short posts on singular locations, features or artefacts found in the Furness area. Not large enough to warrant a long blog post we will explore these sites in snapshots!

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7 Must See Heritage Attractions in Furness

Furness Abbey, English Heritage

There is no denying the beauty and tranquility of Furness Abbey nor its rich history. The Abbey was, in its day, the second richest abbey in the country, Fountains being the richest. Today the Abbey is managed by English Heritage and is open for visitors through out the year. There is nothing better than spending a few hours wandering around the ruins, exploring the buildings working out what was what.

The Crozier and Ring found at the Abbey in 2010 are now on permanent display in the visitor centre along with many other interesting artefacts, from carvings to effigies.

Highlight: Other than the expansive ruins, the Crozier and Ring with their fascinating new display.

The Dock Museum, Barrow

The Dock Museum is a wonderful little museum all about the industrial and shipbuilding history of Barrow-in-Furness. They also have a brand new gallery which showcases the earlier history of the Furness area. Built into a Victorian dry dock the museum is free to enter and several hours can certainly be spent exploring the displays, as well as the dock. There is also a film show area on the bottom floor with a selection of interesting documentary films to watch.

Highlight: The Stone Axe, Blood Axe, Conquest Gallery including the Viking Hoard and two superbly decorated lead weights.

Dalton Castle, National Trust

Once the court house and prison for Furness Abbey, Dalton Castle is a wonderful little peal tower sitting proudly overlooking Dalton. Owned by the National Trust and run by the Friends of Dalton Castle, the property is open on Saturdays from April to October and is well worth a visit. It may be a small property but there is much to discover with in as well as in the surrounding town.

Highlight: The Medieval dungeon or cell beneath the floor boards within the castle. The spiral staircase is pretty special too!

Swarthmoor Hall

Birthplace of the Quakers Swarthmoor Hall is a wonderful Tudor built mansion nestled in the countryside surrounding Swarthmoor and Ulverston. Open to visitors regularly throughout the year the hall has a lot to offer. The building itself is fascinating to wander around and there are some lovely gardens to stroll in too.

Highlight: The interesting wooden staircase to the back of the house with its central frame which once supported the roof!

Piel Castle, English Heritage

Piel Castle was built by the Abbot of Furness on the south-eastern point of Piel Island, to guard the deep-water harbour of Barrow-in-Furness against pirates and Scots raiders. The site boasts the ruins of a 14th-century castle, now in the care of English Heritage, with a large keep, inner and outer baileys and towered curtain walls. The island of Piel is a beautiful place that can be visited by a small ferry service running throughout the year, when the tide is right. You can really wile away the hours here and on a nice sunny day it is simply glorious!

Highlight: The expansive castle ruins, you can access the top of the main keep on certain days when it is opened.

Gleaston Water Mill

One of the only remaining water mills in the Furness area Gleaston Water Mill is a wonderful reminder of industrial times gone by. The building that stands today was built, or more precisely re-built, in the 1700s. The original mill dated back to the early 1300s and would have ground oats. Today you can visit the mill and look around inside and out as well as enjoy a lovely tea room just next door.

Highlight: The water wheel to the north of the mill, it may not work anymore but is lovely to see.

Conishead Priory

Now home to a Buddhist community Cornishead Priory has had a long and vivid history. Originally a Medieval priory it later became the home of Colonel Thomas Braddyll who built much of what is seen today, before being turned into a hotel. It has also spent time as a holiday home of sorts for the Durham Miners and a military hospital. The Buddhist community took possession of the building in 1976 and have since been slowly bringing it back to life. The grounds to the priory are open to the public throughout the year, except when large Buddhist events take place, there is also a lovely little cafe inside part of the building. Unfortunately the whole building isn't often open to the public.

Highlight: The stunning building, a treat for the eyes from every angle!

Victorian Emergency Services Series - Ulverston

Today we take Emergency Services like hospitals, the police and the fire brigade for granted. They are engrained in our modern world, if we need them they are there and we can always rely on them. Back in the Victorian Era though things were very different. In this post we conclude our series on Victorian Emergency Services by looking at Ulverston.

Town Jails and Police Station

The Town Gaol

One of the earliest law enforcement sites in Ulverston is, and was, tucked down a side ally now known as Smithy Close, just off of King Street. This building was used as the Town Gaol (jail) where people found under the influence were placed to sober up. At the time this building was used anyone found committing a more serious crime would have been sent to Lancaster for trial.

By 1836 Ulverston had a new custom build Town Jail, often referred to as the 'Black Hole' by locals, to fulfill the need for a police station. This lock up was situated on The Gill, not that you would know today, a toilet block now sits where the jail used to be. The jail was a square building standing alone in the middle of the Gill. It held three cells, at about 6 feet by 3 feet, where wrong doers would be imprisoned. Above the cells were living space and bedrooms, this is most likely where a Police Officer would have lived. It can't have been the most pleasant place to live but needs must when you are a Victorian Policeman.

Several years later and land was bought on Neville Street to build a new, larger, Police station. The new station  opened in 1888 having been designed by local Architect James W Grundy. Grundy was also responsible for some proposed developments to the Town Jail, planning to add a new living area. The new Police Station was much bigger than anything the town had had before, standing taller and looking much grander. Inside the building, just through the main door, there was a Superintendents Office to the left with a Clerks Office to the right. Beyond this was a passage leading to 4 large cells, awaiting the detention  of criminals from Ulverston streets. As well as these rooms there was also a Constables Parade Room, where constables would be briefed before going on duty, two bedrooms upstairs with living quarters in separate buildings to the rear. This Station had everything a growing Victorian Police Force would need to carry out its work. Before this the town, much like Barrow and Dalton, was making do with small lock ups and one manned stations. As towns grew and the population of Furness rose, more stations of this size were needed to handle the rise in crime.

The Police Station is still in use by the Ulverston constabulary and is one of the only Victorian built stations in Furness that is still in use today. How much longer it will remain in use is uncertain at this time but one hopes that this building has a long life ahead of it.

Ulverston Cottage Hospital

In 1873 a brand new Cottage Hospital opened on Newton Street, near the Swan Inn. The hospital was built to mainly cater for casualty patients. It did later, in 1906, take on surgical cases and develop a maternity department. The hospital was funded by voluntary contributions, as was the norm in Victorian England, and fundraising were undertaken through annual parades that took place in the town centre. The hospital building was designed, like the later Police Station, by James W Grundy, in 1871. The building contained two wards able to hold three beds, a convalescent ward and a special ward. It also had a small surgery, nurse's room and operation room. Upstairs there was a room for children's cots, presumably to hold any sick children brought to the establishment, along with two bedrooms. Everything was tailored for the healing and care of the ill and wounded, from the purpose built wards to the large exterior garden. Of course along with healing, unfortunately, also comes death. A reminder of this stood to the rear of the hospital in a separate out-building. This building was the mortuary chamber. Here anyone who passed away in the hospital would be brought for autopsy.

Today the only evidence left of this hospital is a wall and fence on Newton Street, which the hospital would have stood behind. The hospital building itself has, sadly, been replaced by housing.

The hospital served the town until 1971 when it was demolished. A new hospital soon opened in Stanley Street with in an old workhouse building. This building was also demolished at a later date to make way for a new purpose built hospital, which still stands on the site today.

Fire Station

Sitting on The Ellers is a small building currently being used by the St. Johns ambulance, but back in 1886 this building was just opening as Ulverston's first, purpose built, Fire Station! Armed with an old manual engine the Fire Brigade would set out to tackle the fires of Ulverston town. Some years after the Brigade purchased a brand new Greenwich Gem fire engine. The engine went through several testings, one memorable one being witnessed by Councillors and locals alike. This test included the engines water jet blasting 360 gallons of water a minute at the walls of the Workhouse on Stanley Street. This must have been quite a display for the onlookers, possibly something they had never seen before. A small boiler at the rear of the machine powered the engines water jet. The Fire Station on The Ellers continued to serve the town for many many years, under going several alterations and extensions in the 1900s, until eventually closing in 1974 when a new station was built just next door.

Conclusion

The Victorian period really saw the birth of modern emergency services. The expansion of the police force and fire brigades brought to the fore well run services ready to cope with whatever was thrown at them. Criminals could be apprehended sooner, fires could be fought quicker and more efficiently. The building of hospitals to aid the public saw an advance in medical care and treatment; medicines would become more and more accessible. People injured in accidents would be treated quicker and in a safer environment, which led to less deaths and longer lives. These hospitals also paved the way for the welfare state and eventually the NHS we know today. Without the Victorian advances in emergency services Britain could be a very different place today! 

Site of the Town Jail, now a toilet block.

Tudor Manor, Meeting House and Home of the Quakers, Swarthmoor Hall

Sitting on the outskirts of Swarthmoor, near Ulverston, there stands a building that is often forgotten about, Swarthmoor Hall. The Hall has such an important and interesting history that it really should be visited more!

Swarthmoor Hall, now covered in a less than flattering pebbledash render, was built in about 1568 by George Fell. George's son Thomas, who was a lawyer in London, married Margaret Askew, a Furness women, in 1632. Soon after their marriage they took up residence in the hall. Some years late in 1642 The English Civil War broke out. During the War Thomas Fell was on the side of the Parliamentarians and held several important positions in the North. Within this period Margaret became a Seeker. The Seekers were a 17th century religious group of which many were becoming part of in Cumbria and the North. Due to Thomas's involvement in the Civil War he often had to leave Swarthmoor to travel, this continued after the war had finished. It was on one of his absences in 1652 that a man named George Fox visited Swarthmoor Hall. Fox, while at Swarthmoor, convinced Margaret and her family of the truth as seen by him and his followers. When Thomas returned to the Hall he met with Fox and he granted permission for Fox and his followers to meet every Sunday in the great hall. This was the start of the Religious Society of Friends, more popularly known as the Quakers.

From 1652 Swarthmoor Hall became the base of Fox's work and was the centre of Quakerism, helping spread the new religion though the North. Meetings between Friends were held at the Hall until 1688 when Fox was given the Meeting House nearby, on the now appropriately named Meeting House Lane. This meeting house is still in use today by the Society for meetings and worship. You can easily find the meeting house by foot or by road and it is certainly worth a look, although public access is prohibited you can see it from the pavement and road.

Although allowing meetings at his home Thomas Fell never became a 'Friend'. He would though, in his later life, listen in on the meetings from the parlour. He no doubt had an interest in the Society and would want to keep an eye on what was taking place within his home. In 1658 Thomas died. Upon his death the Hall was left to his Wife Margaret, now a keen member of the Quakers. Today Margaret is often referred to as the 'Mother of Quakerism' and with good reason. Her passion for the religion led her to visit London in 1660 where she endeavoured to persuade Charles II to implement his promise of religious tolerance. It was through her persuasion that some 4000 friends were released from prison. Margaret herself was held in prison at Lancaster Castle in 1664 for refusing to stop holding Quaker meetings at Swarthmoor. In 1668 Charles II gave her a free pass and on her release she traveled South to visit other Friends being held in prison. She even married Quaker fonder George Fox who was busy spreading the religion though England and to America.

Through out their marriage Fox stayed at Swarthmoor Hall for around 4 years in total. In this time he dictated some of his journal and wrote many letters. He also undertook many interviews here. Fox sadly died in 1691 leaving Margaret a widow for the second time in her life. Margaret continued her work with the Quakers until her death in 1702. Upon her death she was laid to rest with Friends in the Quaker burial ground on Birkrigg Common, something we have spoken about in a previous blog. There she still lies to this day and a plaque commemorating her is attached to the wall of the burial ground.

Swarthmoor Hall itself is a beautiful Tudor Manor House with many interesting features of the time both inside and out. There are wonderful mullioned windows across the house with some impressive bayed windows on one side, originally believed to be the front of the house. On this side there is also a wooden balcony on the first floor, a set of wooden stairs may once have risen to this platform. Above the door that leads to this balcony there is a well carved piece of sandstone forming the lintel which is worth a look. Within the building there is oak paneling galore, a rather interesting travel bed and staircase as well as many other features. We won't go into any detail about the interior of the Hall, you will have to visit for that!

Swarthmoor Hall is one of those hidden gems in Furness, many don't realise it is there but once you have found it you regret having not found it sooner. It is a tranquil and lovely place to visit with not only the attraction of the Hall but of some well kept gardens. It is a shame that such a significant building, the birth place of Quakerism, is today a largely forgotten place not often visited by tourists or locals alike, so why not take a trip yourself?

If you would like to visit the Hall then check out their website for opening times and events -www.swarthmoorhall.co.uk

The next Hidden Heritage blog will be online from February 4th and will be looking at two lost sites of Barrow.

Water Reflecting an Industrial Past, Ulverston Canal

Stretching out from Ulverston town to meet with the sea at, the appropriately named, Canal Foot is Ulverston Canal. An 18th Century built canal made for the import and export of goods to and from Ulverston.

Today the canal has a number of footpaths leading to and along it for anyone to use. There is a footpath that runs along the whole canal and is a lovely walk to take. Walking along this path, if you look closely, you can see some interesting reminders of the once working canal.

The canal was once the shortest, deepest and broadest in Britain and was first started in 1793 with Thomas Sunderland cutting the first sod on June 1st. The company Pinkerton and Murray had won the contract to dig the Canal and basins. They earned 3 1/2d per cubic yard but a lack of funds ended in them being unable to complete the contract. A Mr H. Baird took over to complete the canal construction, which was now lagging behind. Originally intended to open around 1794 the Canal eventually opened over two years late in 1796. Locals gathered around the locks at Canal Foot to witness The Sally be the first vessel to enter the Canal. A further three vessels entered after including The Content which was pulled with rope along the Canal by the crowds. The Content managed to overtake The Sally and was the first to reach the top basin of the Canal at Ulverston!

The Canal was built for the import of coal, cotton, timber, spirits and sugar to Ulverston and the surrounding area. It was also used to export charcoal, slate and linen to the rest of the country. With the newly built Canal many industries sprang up along it's edge including an iron founder, a timber yard and appropriately a sail maker and a boat builder. The Canal opened up new possibilities for industry and trade providing a new platform to export across the country and even beyond.

Along the Canals edge you can come across interesting remnants of the past. The footpath on which you walk is the 'towpath' of the Canal, which, as its name suggests, would have been used to tow sail-less boats along the canal. Humans or horses could have used this path to tow the boats. Along the towpath there are small metal capstans, pictured to the left, which boats could be tethered to, to prevent them drifting off in the water. There will no doubt be many of these hidden amongst the undergrowth along the canal so keep an eye out for them. Running next to the towpath is the back drain, this would have been constructed to drain any excess water from the canal to keep it at a set level. It would have been important to keep the water level at a set point to avoid flooding at the many industrial sites springing up right next to the canal.

Trade hit its peak on the canal in 1846 with 944 vessels entering it that year. With the discovery of iron ore in Furness the need of a railway to transport the ore to Barrow became evident. It was in May 1844 that a Furness Railway Bill was passed and a railway opened in 1846. By 1854 the railway had reached Ulverston and with this came the decline of the Canal. In 1857 a new section of line opened that cut right across the Canal. As pictured to the right a viaduct, to take the new track, was built across the Canal, this prevented tall ships from reaching the top basin. Iron became cheaper to transport by rail than by boat, this along with the viaduct's construction saw the end of the Canals dominance in industrial transport. Eventually, in 1949, the Canal was empty of boats and the lock gates at Canal Foot were sealed with concrete never to be opened again. The lock gates still remain today, if in a state of disrepair, as a lasting reminder of the Canals glory days in the 18th and 19th century.

The Nahula sitting as the last boat on Ulverston Canal.

She was the last vessel to ever sail through the lock gates.

The Canal is easy to access and is great for a nice leisurely walk on easy terrain. There is plenty of space to park at Canal Foot and the footpath running alongside the Canal takes you for just over a mile to the top basin. If you go for an explore keep an eye out for the various hidden heritage including the lock gates, the capstans, back drain and of course remember that you are walking in the footsteps of our ancestors on the towpath! Also look out for some old rail tracks cutting across the path that would once have linked up to the Iron Works that was established across the Canal. There is even a red brick tower standing on the other side of the Canal that may have been part of the Iron Works.

The Act for the construction of the Canal
published on 8th May 1793.